Far from the temples, four Singaporeans touch the lives of Cambodians and others in Siem Reap. Through their work they demonstrate to others the diversity and benevolence of Singaporeans, and offer those at home much to think about.
“My events are like that. You show up, you better be prepared to carry shit.” This warm Singaporean welcome greeted me on my first day in Siem Reap, Cambodia. My trip coincided with the 18th edition of the annual Angkor Photo Festival, a 10-day event that combines photography workshops and public exhibitions. Since 2018, it has been helmed by 39-year-old Jessica Lim, an old friend whose lady boss incarnation I was just getting to know.
She had just gathered a random assortment of six men to move a thick wooden table. Two days later, I would be part of a different group of 12 men tasked to shift a 20-by-20-ft white screen that had been built on metal pipes. Jessica shepherded us. “How, my eye power not bad ah?” she said, once we were done, drawing laughs from non-Singaporeans being schooled in Singlish. And, perhaps feeling an immediate pang of guilt, “Guys, one beer each on me!”
The Festival was in the Chocolate Gardens, a park cum events space. At its centre is a café that does a yummy flat white and stocks both light and black Hanuman beer. Along its edges are traditional Khmer wooden houses, whose modernised interiors are used for a library, office and work spaces. Dwarfing these brown cubes are the towering trees reminiscent of the fabled Cambodian countryside.
Middle-class locals frequent the Chocolate Gardens—in a district some call Siem Reap’s Tiong Bahru—especially for its weekend market. But during the Festival this space throbs with the energy of a multicultural mash: the 15 workshop participants are from Cambodia, India, Myanmar, Nepal, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam; Jessica’s co-curator is a Bangladeshi; and a guest curator is Indonesian.
For many years Asian photojournalists have been telling some of the region’s most urgent, critical stories. The themes that emerged during the Festival—including on gender, sexual orientation and identity; deforestation and other ills of development; autocracies, borders and conflict, including the coup in Myanmar—offered a potent base for a melange of conversations and ideas, with local struggles finding resonance across cultures and time. Whenever I stepped into the Chocolate Gardens it felt like I was being transported to some mythical Asian commune of art, journalism, activism and passion, like a Bandung Conference for artists. How and why has this Festival emerged in Siem Reap?
In 2011, on my first and only other trip to Siem Reap, I played the robotic tourist. We stayed for a few nights. We bought temple passes. We found cute, hidden spots for photos, our perceptions still uncoloured by the gravitational forces on Instagram. We visited a floating village. We tried Cambodian food and then compared it to Thai. We had a massage. We flew home.
For subscribers only
Subscribe now to read this post and also gain access to Jom’s full library of content.
In Colombia's Caribbean coast, which has been affected by repeated cycles of violence, a Singaporean engages in the delicate yet fulfilling work of peacebuilding—which, she argues, is about more than eliminating physical violence.
Singaporeans have felt powerless during Israel’s war on Gaza, but Dr Ang Swee Chai, back only for the third time in 47 years, has never felt more hopeful for change.
As former British colonies, Malaya and Palestine were connected by the same global structures of domination, which survive to the present day. In this essay, Jom's history editor recovers the intricate threads that continue to involve Singapore in Palestine’s ongoing occupation and resistance.
As the accusations of genocide against Israel grow, we examine the history and power of the word, the evidence in Gaza today, and the connections between ordinary Singaporeans and Israel’s actions.
Thank you for your paid subscription to Jom.
Please click on the link sent to your e-mail to login to your account.
You’ve successfully subscribed to Jom
Welcome back! You’ve successfully signed in.
Great! You’ve successfully signed up.
Your link has expired
Success! Check your email for magic link to sign-in.